download free wiring diagram

Finding the best amplifier for your auto sound system can be a lot easier if you take the time ahead of time to learn what you need and what will work best with the sound system youve selected for your car, truck, or SUV. It helps to understand what an amplifier does in order to purchase the one that will best suit your needs. An amplifier takes a small sound, adds a little boost of its own, and then turns it into a big sound. The more power your amplifier has, the better quality of sound it will provide. An underpowered amplifier will have a thin, tinny sound that is rather unattractive in an auto sound system, or any other sound system for that matter.

You should also take care to remember that the power rating of an amplifier is the maximum power it is capable of expending not the amount that it will regularly use. The RMS rating of an amplifier is a good indication of its power output. One thing that is important to remember is that you should never buy an amplifier based on the maximum output or RMS rating. This number is more often than not incredibly misleading. If a driving, thumping bass beat is important to you then you should make sure that your amplifier has a bass boost button. This button will or switch will give a little bit of a boost to your bass. Its something I can pass on by many bass lovers cannot live without. Not all amplifiers have this so choose wisely and according to your preferences.

When it comes to amplifiers there are essentially four major classes (there are other classes but they are not all that common so I will not dwell on defining them) that represent the quality of sound you should expect from the system.

1) A. This class has a great output of quality sound but wastes huge amounts of energy in the process of creating that wonderful sound.

2) B. This class is slightly better than A as far as it wastes less energy and slightly worse as it produces a somewhat inferior quality of sound.

3) A/B. This resembles either A or B as far as sound and energy waste goes depending on the volume. Lower volumes will utilize the class A qualities of the amplifier while louder volumes are more in keeping with class B.

4) D. This class is primarily decent for producing a good bass sound and little else. The quality of sound and amount of energy wasted are both only moderate and neither are very impressive.

Of course this is the bare bones run through of the very basic amplifier basics. Another thing to note is that many people simply refer to amplifiers as amps rather than saying the entire word. Its slang but its so common that no one will blink if you do it. In fact you are far more likely to get funny looks for calling it an amplifier. Regardless of the small talk an amplifier isnt the end all be all of an auto sound system. It is only important if you feel it is important and many sound systems work splendidly without an extra amplifier to confuse the process and raise the price.

Whenever you decide to buy a new auto sound system for your car, truck, or SUV there is a moment of exhilaration and excitement as this is often a decision youve mulled over for quite a while rather than a spur of the moment decision. This exhilaration is promptly followed by a moment of complete and utter fear, as most of us have no clue what we really need. Hopefully, this has helped you decide whether or not you will need an amplifier and if you will, perhaps you can make a more educated and informed decision as to the type of amp you need.

Parts:

R1_____________500K  1/2W Trimmer Cermet or Carbon
R2______________47K  1/4W Resistor
R3,R4____________1K  1/4W Resistors
R5,R6,R7,R8_____10K  1/4W Resistors

C1_______________1µF  63V Polyester or electrolytic capacitor
C2_____________220µF  25V Electrolytic capacitor

D1-D8__________LEDs Yellow ultra-bright types

Q1,Q2,Q3,Q4___BC337   45V 800mA NPN Transistors

IC1____________7555 or TS555CN or TLC555CP CMos Timer IC
IC2____________4017 Decade counter with 10 decoded outputs IC

SW1____________Vehicle Turn Lights switch (See Comments)

Battery_________12V Vehicle battery

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Comments:

This
device was designed on request and allows sequential operation of
four Leds either to left or right direction, obtained by means of a
7555 CMos timer IC (IC1) wired as an astable multivibrator driving a
Decade counter (IC2). This IC is set to count a sequence of four by
connection of pin #10 to pin #15, but any sequence count in the 2-10
range can be set by choosing the appropriate pin connection. Obviously,
LEDs, Transistors and their respective Base-limiting resistors must
also be added or omitted accordingly.
R1 is a variable resistor
(Trimmer), used to set the desired speed of the LEDs. SW1 is a
change-over switch that should already exist in your motorcycle,
having a center-off position and Turn-left and Turn-right positions.
D1, D3, D5 and D7 are the Turn-left LEDs; D2, D4, D6 and D8 are the Turn-right LEDs.

For a motorcycle they are arranged on a single board about 20 - 25 cm
wide as shown in the image below. The outer red LEDs are the
tail/brake lights and can be driven by a circuit like the LED driven
tail/brake Light Cluster available on this website.

Note:

• The use of high brightness, high efficiency yellow LED types of suitable size is mandatory.