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Sunday, March 31, 2013

AVR Dongle Circuit

This circuit is intended to program AVR controllers such as the AT90S1200 via the parallel port. The circuit is extremely simple. IC1 provides buffering for the signals that travel from the parallel port to the microcontroller and vice versa. This is essentially everything that can be said about the circuit. The two boxheaders (K2 and K3) have the ‘standard’ ISP (in system programming) pinout for the AVR controllers. The manufacturer recommends these two pinouts in an attempt to create a kind of standard for the in-circuit programming of AVR-controllers. These connections can be found on many development boards for these controllers. The software carries out the actual programming task.

Circuit diagram :

AVR Dongle Circuit Diagram

It is therefore necessary to have a program (ATMEL AVR ISP), which is available as a free download from http://www.atmel.com. The construction of the circuit will have to made on standard prototype board, since we didn’t design a PCB for this circuit. This should not present any difficulties considering the small number of parts involved. We recommend that inexperienced builders ﬁrst make a copy of the circuit and cross off each connection on the schematic once it has been made on the board. This makes it easy to check afterwards whether all connections have been made or not.

Author: P. G oossens - Copyright: Elektor Electronics

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Simple Door Alarm

Hangs up on the door-handle Beeps when someone touches the door-handle from outside

This circuit emits a beep and/or illuminates a LED when someone touches the door-handle from the outside. The alarm will sound until the circuit will be switched-off. The entire circuit is enclosed in a small plastic or wooden box and should be hanged-up to the door-handle by means of a thick wire hook protruding from the top of the case.

A wide-range sensitivity control allows the use of the Door Alarm over a wide variety of door types, handles and locks. The device has proven reliable even when part of the lock comes in contact with the wall (bricks, stones, reinforced concrete), but does not work with all-metal doors. The LED is very useful during setup.

Door Alarm Circuit diagram:

Parts:

R1______________1M   1/4W Resistor
R2______________3K3  1 or 2W Resistor (See Notes)
R3_____________10K   1/2W Trimmer Cermet (See Notes)
R4_____________33K   1/4W Resistor
R5____________150K   1/4W Resistor
R6______________2K2  1/4W Resistor
R7_____________22K   1/4W Resistor
R8______________4K7  1/4W Resistor

C1,C2__________10nF   63V Ceramic or Polyester Capacitors
C3_____________10pF   63V Ceramic Capacitor
C4,C6_________100nF   63V Ceramic or Polyester Capacitors
C5______________2µ2   25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C7____________100µF   25V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1,D2,D4_____1N4148   75V 150mA Diodes
D3_____________5 or 3mm. Red LED

Q1,Q2,Q3,Q5___BC547   45V 100mA NPN Transistors
Q4____________BC557   45V 100mA PNP Transistor

L1_________________   (See Notes)
L2_____________10mH  miniature Inductor

Hook_______________   (See Notes)

BZ1___________Piezo sounder (incorporating 3KHz oscillator)

SW1,SW2________SPST  miniature Slider Switches

B1_______________9V  PP3 Battery

Clip for PP3 Battery

Circuit operation:

Q1 forms a free-running oscillator: its output bursts drive Q2 into saturation, so Q3 and the LED are off. When part of a human body comes in contact with a metal handle electrically connected to the wire hook, the body capacitance damps Q1 oscillations, Q2 biasing falls off and the transistor becomes non conducting. Therefore, current can flow into Q3 base and D3 illuminates. If SW1 is closed, a self-latching circuit formed by Q4 & Q5 is triggered and the beeper BZ1 is activated.

When the human body part leaves the handle, the LED switches-off but the beeper continues to sound, due to the self-latching behavior of Q4 & Q5. To stop the beeper action, the entire circuit must be switched-off opening SW2. R3 is the sensitivity control, allowing to cope with a wide variety of door types, handles and locks.

Notes:

L1 is formed winding 20 to 30 turns of 0.4mm. diameter enameled copper wire on R2 body and soldering the coil ends to the resistor leads. You should fill R2 body completely with coil winding: the final turns number can vary slightly, depending on different 1 or 2W resistor types actual length (mean dimensions for these components are 13 - 18mm. length and 5 - 6mm. diameter).
The hook is made from non-insulated wire 1 - 2mm. diameter (brass is well suited). Its length can vary from about 5 to 10cm. (not critical).
If the device is moved frequently to different doors, Trimmer R3 can be substituted by a common linear potentiometer fitted with outer knob for easy setup.
To setup the device hang-up the hook to the door-handle (with the door closed), open SW1 and switch-on the circuit. Adjust R3 until the LED illuminates, then turn slowly backwards the screwdriver (or the knob) until the LED is completely off. At this point, touching the door-handle with your hand the LED should illuminate, going off when the hand is withdrawn. Finally, close SW1 and the beeper will sound when the door-handle will be touched again, but will not stop until SW2 is opened.
In regular use, it is advisable to hang-up and power-on the device with SW1 open: when all is well settled, SW1 can be closed. This precautionary measure is necessary to avoid unwanted triggering of the beeper.

Source : http://www.ecircuitslab.com/2011/06/door-alarm-circuit.html

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Saturday, March 30, 2013

Build a Tube Preamp for guitar with tone control

I
decided recently to build a tube preamp for my home studio. Please
note, however, that this is not a circuit for the novice electronics
builder. The circuit itself is simple, but unlike most semiconductor
projects, this one uses voltages near 300V. The danger of electrocution
is present and neither the author can assume responsibility for
protecting you.
If you are not familiar with good construction and
safety practices for high – voltage electronics, do not attempt to build
this circuit.

So how does it sound?

This
preamp won’t make the sound of an overdriven Marshall stack, nor is it a
heavy metal distortion unit, but it does produce tonal colors ranging
from a slight “warming” to soft distortion. Turning down the drive
control produces a somewhat brighter sound with no distortion? Turning
the drive all the way up produces distortion that really bites on the
bass strings and softens out on the higher notes. Driving the unit hard
also produces a bit of a compression effect. With my two – finger power
chord playing style, I find the overall effect quite pleasing.

Circuit description

The
preamp circuit, based on a design in the 1975 RCA Receiving Tube
Manual, uses a 12AX7 tube as a two stage, voltage gain amplifier.
This “generic” circuit is similar to what you will find in most guitar amp rpeamps.
The
12AX7 (6N2P and ECC83 are equivalent tubes) is probably the most common
tube used in the music business. Almost all current tube effects use
this tube, as do most vintage tube amps.
The 12AX7 was designed for
use in audio applications requiring exceptionally low hum and noise
levels. It is a high gain, twin triode device, having tow identical
sections sharing a common heater filament.
The guitar or other input feeds J1 and goes to the grid of the first tube stage, which produces a voltage gain of about 30.
This boosts the guitar’s 40 mV (nominal) input up to about up to about 1.2V.
Coupling
capacitor C2 picks off the amplified signal while blocking the high
voltage plate supply. The signal then goes through the tone control
circuit (R5-R9 and C3-C6) before feeding the second stage’s input.
Potentiometer R10 is a voltage divider that sets the drive.
The
second tube stage provides a gain of ten. The output signal couples
through blocking capacitor C8 to the load resistance (R13 and R14).
Control R14 varies the output signal level at J2, up to a maximum of
about 1.5V. this should feed a relatively high impedance stage; 600ohm
mixer inputs are not recommended. Resistors R4 and R12 are bias
resistors that allow the tube cathodes to develop a positive potential
with respect to ground. Capacitors C1 and C7 filter any ripple appearing
across these resistors.

POWER SUPPLY.

Transformer is a dual secondary type rated at 250VAC center-tapped for the tube’s plate supply and 6.3VAC for the tube filament.
The
output from a full-wave rectifier is 0.7 times the input AC voltage, so
about 185V appears across C10 and under load, about 140V appears
across.
Any transformer that produces 150 to 275VAC should work fine.
You
can also use a transformer with a 12VAC filament winding by grounding
ground pin 9 of the 12AX7 and running the 12VAC into pins 4 and 5.

PARTS LIST

R1, R5, R13------------47K 1/2W
R2----------------------1M 1/2W
R3, R8----------------100K 1/2W
R4---------------------2.2K 1/2W
R6, R9, R10-------------1M potentiometer
R7---------------------10K 1/2W
R11--------------------68K 1/2W
R12--------------------15K 1/2W
R14--------------------50K potentiometer
R15--------------------47K 1W
R16------------------220K 1/2W

C1, C7------------------25mf 62V
C2, C8-----------------220nf 400V ceramic disk
C3----------------------20nf 400V ceramic disk
C4, C6------------------1.2nf 400V ceramic disk
C5---------------------220pf 400V ceramic disk
C9, C10-------------33-47mf 400V electrolytic

D1 – D4------------------1N4004
F1-----------------------0.1A fuse
J1, J2--------------------phone jack
T------------------------2x250V 50ma 6V 1 A transformer

V1-----------------------12AX7 or ECC83, 6N2P
S1---------------------- -switch
Misc---------------------9-pin tube socket

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12V Speed Controller Dimmer

This handy circuit can be used as a speed controller for a 12V motor rated up to 5A (continuous) or as a dimmer for a 12V halogen or standard incandescent lamp rated up to 50W. It varies the power to the load (motor or lamp) using pulse width modulation (PWM) at a pulse frequency of around 220Hz. SILICON CHIP has produced a number of DC speed controllers over the years, the most recent being our high-power 24V 40A design featured in the March & April 2008 issues. Another very popular design is our 12V/24V 20A design featured in the June 1997 issue and we have also featured a number of reversible 12V designs.

Project Image :

12V Speed Controller/Dimmer Project Image

For many applications though, most of these designs are over-kill and a much simpler circuit will suffice. Which is why we are presenting this basic design which uses a 7555 timer IC, a Mosfet and not much else. Being a simple design, it does not monitor motor back-EMF to provide improved speed regulation and nor does it have any fancy overload protection apart from a fuse. However, it is a very efficient circuit and the kit cost is quite low.

Parts layout:

Connection diagram:

There are many applications for this circuit which will all be based on 12V motors, fans or lamps. You can use it in cars, boats, and recreational vehicles, in model boats and model railways and so on. Want to control a 12V fan in a car, caravan or computer? This circuit will do it for you. The circuit uses a 7555 timer (IC1) to generate variable width pulses at about 210Hz. This drives Mosfet Q3 (via transistors Q1 & Q2) to control the speed of a motor or to dim an incandescent lamp.

Circuit diagram :

12V Speed Controller/Dimmer Circuit Diagram

While the circuit can dim 12V halogen lamps, we should point out that dimming halogen lamps is very wasteful. In situations where you need dimmable 12V lamps, you will be much better off substituting 12V LED lamps which are now readily available in standard bayonet, miniature Edison screw (MES) and MR16 halogen bases. Not only are these LED replacement lamps much more efficient than halogen lamps, they do not get anywhere near as hot and will also last a great deal longer.

Source : Streampowers

Friday, March 29, 2013

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